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Introduction

There are quite a few survival kits on the market. Some fall into the "good but expensive" category, while many of the others are stocked with inferior products. If you're like me and want the best kit money can buy, you'll probably have to build it yourself.

Box First off, you'll need some kind of container to hold everything. Tobacco tins work nicely for very small kits, but for something larger I prefer the Spacemaker pencil boxes (upper left) that are readily available at your local Wal-Mart. For under two bucks you get a 2 x 5 x 8 inch plastic box that easily fits in your pack or one of its external pockets. They also come in handy for storing random items and for making small first aid kits.

On the other hand, if you need something smaller, you might want to consider something like the Spec-Ops Utility Pouch Spec-Ops Utility Pouch (right) or the Kifaru GPS Pouch (lower left). Both will attach to MOLLE gear and the former can be used with ALICE and MALICE clips. Whatever you choose to hold your kit, it should be durable, able to repel water, and easy to carry

Water


A basic requirement is the ability to purify and transport water. A bare bones way to accomplish this is with some form of water purification tablets icon, a non-lubricated condom and a sock to support it. Keep in mind that if you use tabs that contain Iodine, you may want to mask its taste with a packet of Cool-Aid, Gatoraid, etc. Just remember to buy the ones that are already sweetened (Potable Aqua does have a secondary tablet that can be added to the water after purification to help remove the disagreeable taste). Also, never use any form of Iodine that is not specifically manufactured for water purification.

Small amounts of Bleach can be used to disinfect water, but you're better off using something like Aerobic K07 or iconAerobic Oxygen. Not only is it easier on your body than Bleach or Iodine tabs, but I have heard it can be used to help get rid of intestinal contamination that you may have picked up.

Preferably, you need some type of quality water filter and something durable in which to carry at least a quart of water. A iconstraw containing a built-in filter would be a good choice for a small kit. Because some filters aren't designed to remove all the bad stuff, I would recommend using iconoxygen-based purification in addition to your filter. It would only make things worse if you were in a survival situation and then contracted an intestinal bug to top it off.

Water For a small kit, there are several water bags that are compact when empty and will carry about one gallon when full. They can be used separately, or inside a cloth pouch, which makes them more durable. Some can also be inflated with air and use it as a floatation aid.

The green container illustrated above has a cloth outer bag for support and also a spout of sorts to regulate the flow of water. A good choice if you have a pack, but it takes up too much space in a small container. My solution is to carry a half-gallon plastic zip-lock bag contained with a rubber band. It's not extremely durable, but it's small, portable, and would get the job done for a while.

Something else that would be a good idea to carry is a three by three foot square of plastic for making a solar still. Check back here for more instructions on making and using one.

Fire


The most important part of any survival gear is something to help you make fire. The most primitive method of doing this is with a bow and drill. All you have to provide is some rope, string, or sinew to complete the bow and the rest be scrounged. A magnifing glass is capable of starting a fire also, but if you stare at the focused point of light, your eyes my be painfully injured for a while -- a similar condition to snow blindness.

Fire Starters Eventually, I'll write an article detailing how to make fire using these methods, but even if you know how to use a bow and drill I recommend that you at least carry some matches, preferably of the iconwaterproof type. In a waterproof container. A cigarette lighter is good to have along so that you don't have to carry so many matches, but the disposable ones don't last very long and Zippo lighters that require fluid always seem to go empty every two weeks whether you use them or not.

There are several manufacturers who offer
iconbutane "storm proof" lighters, but I haven't used one so I don't know if they are reliable. By all means, carry some type of lighter in addition to matches, but don't rely on it as your only means for making fire.

A worthy addition to your kit is a
magnesium fire startermagnesium fire starter (bottom middle). After shaving some bits of the substance from your block, you strike a knife or other metal object against the embedded flint rod to create a spark. Since magnesium burns quite hot, you can use this to start even damp tinder.

Trioxane fuel bars or tablets (right) are also a good source of fuel to coax stubborn tinder to burn. Small wads of cotton, packed with petroleum jelly, work nicely also. Just make sure you use real cotton and not the synthetic cotton balls that are used for removing cosmetics. If you don't have any cotton balls, use the dryer lint from your cotton clothing. It works amazingly well. An empty film canister makes a good storage container. For more information, read my article, "Making Your Own Firestarters."

iconCandles, while somewhat bulky, are very useful for starting fires and providing heat in cold environments. I have used them on many occasions in snow shelters to help take the bite out of negative double digit wind chill. One or two small (one by six inch, for example) paraffin candles will heat a four person shelter for at least one night. If you do use them, make sure there is plenty of ventilation to reduce the chances of carbon monoxide poisoning. Poking a few holes in the snow shelter will generally do the trick.

Shelter


Survival Blankets The next item you'll need is a survival blanket. These range in price from $1 to $15 depending on the size and quality. For a small kit, buy iconthe cheapo version that's about the size of a small bar of soap (lower right-hand corner). It's not very durable for repeated use, but good enough for an emergency. You can also buy iconsurvival sleeping bags that are based on the same principle as the blanket and probably more useful.

The more expensive ones, sometimes called icon"sportsmen's blankets" go for around $15 each and fold down to the size of a small towel (large red rectangle). You can use these many times and they are great for adding a few extra degrees of warmth if you run into a cold snap on your next campout. They are waterproof and will trap considerable moisture from your body, so don't put one inside your bedding unless you can dry it out later.

Food


Once your water supply and shelter are squared away, you're going to need some food. If you can spare the room, a couple of protein bars will give you the extra energy to round up something else to eat. Chocolate bars work well also, but they can make a mess. Another option is food tablets, which are relatively inexpensive and compact. But if you're out long enough, eventually you will need to gather some food, be it animal, plant or both.

For catching small animals, several yards of brass wire will allow you to construct snares. For fishing, at least 50 feet of 25 pound line, several barbed hooks and swivels with at least as many weights, and a cork or styrfoam float. There are also many edible nuts, berries, and plants that are good for food, so it is advisable to carry some sort of compact identification guide.

A two foot square piece of heavy duty aluminum foil packs down small and can be used not only for cooking, but also for signaling. A small container of salt is very important to have, as it is necessary for proper body function. Salt deficiency will make it difficult to function due to nausea and a general feeling of tiredness. If possible, include a plastic spoon or metal spork.

Knife


One of the most important items is the knife. Stay away from the fancy "survival knives" that have hollow handles and integral compasses. They're more of a novelty rather than something you'd want to be stuck with out in the boonies. If you're wanting a fixed blade, here Cold Steel Knives be sure it has a full tang -- where the blade and tang are one piece and the grips are formed around the tang or attached with screws. The Cold Steel iconRecon Tanto (top, with Gemtech lanyard attached) is my choice for this job. An equally good pick is the Survival Rescue Knife icon. Incidentally, if you've never seen their DVD entitled "More Proof", you should request a free copy. The quality of their knives is truly amazing. The Recon Tanto is made from a proprietary steel named Carbon V and everything but the edge is covered with a rust-resistant matte black finish. It also comes with a Concealex sheath that is reverseable for left or right carry. The only problem is that this is a fairly long knife that won't fit easily into a small kit.

For that purpose, I prefer a tactical folder like the Recon 1 Cold Steel Recon 1 (middle), another quality blade from Cold Steel. Now there are a lot of people out there who will take me to task for recommending a folding knife as a primary survival blade. That's because many folders have weak locking mechanisms and are made from inferior steel. The Recon 1's lock can hold at least 150 pounds.

You're probably thinking that this is starting to sound like a plug for Cold Steel knives, and in a way, it is. Several years ago, I set out to find the company that manufactured the best knives for the money and eventually I discovered Cold Steel. After watching their videos and using their knives every day for almost two years, I feel comfortable recommending their knives to anyone. Visit their website and request the "More Proof" DVD.

If you are putting together a very small kit, the tiny, fixed-blade Super Edge (bottom) is a good choice. It's fully serrated except near the point and is also extremely sharp right out of the box.

First Aid


First Aid Although this is an important part of your kit, you probably won't have room for more than five or six items. One or two Telfa sponges take very little space and are indespensible for burns or abrasions. Antibiotic ointment is useful for so many things that I carry a large tube. Rounding out this selection are six adhesive bandages, a gauze roller bandage, and a small bottle of Advil. Another way to carry medication is to request individual samples from your doctor.

In addition, you may decide to include a packet of iconQuikClot, iconcompression bandage, or a iconsnakebite kit as your situation dictates. I also like to have six or more safety pins which are handy for fastening roller bandages, among other things.

Navigation


Navigation Gear It's a good idea to carry a compass, even if it's just a cheap button model. My favorite is the Silva Ranger, but most any one made by Silva, Brunton, or Suunto (both owned by Silva) will be quite serviceable. The more expensive fluid-filled models are easier to use because the needle stops swinging faster. If you live or travel outside of the Northern Hemisphere, you need one of Suunto's Global compasses which are designed to be used in any of the world's five magnetic zones.

GPS unit is nice, but not something you should rely on instead of a map and compass. If you decide to carry one, take along some extra batteries for it.

I also like to carry an RM Products map protractor (middle). It's about the size of a CD and about 1/20 of an inch thick, so it doesn't take up much room. In addition to being graduated in degrees, it also contains scales for several map sizes (ie: 1:24,000) and a scaled cutout to help you gauge distance and plot exact coordinates.

Other Useful Items


Signaling Some of these items are small enough to include in most any kit and others fall into the "good to have if you have room" category. For getting the attention of rescuers, a iconloud whistle and iconsignalling mirror are important. Compact Discs can be used for for this purpose with the added bonus that they already have a hole in the middle for sighting. Brightly colored panels of plastic or cloth can also be used if available, but most are probably too bulky for you to carry in a kit. Pencil flares or regular marine flares can also be used, but are most effective at sea or in very flat landscape.

Fishing and Sewing Gear For repairing your equipment, carry several needles of differing sizes, including one with a large eye that will accept siniew or the interior strands from paracord. Two or three buttons are also nice to have. As you can see in the photo, I embedded the fish hooks in a wine cork (from which many smaller corks can be cut) and then wrapped fishing line and thread around both the needles and hooks. I keep these items in an empty film canister along with sinkers, swivels, etc. Doing so will help to prevent any injuries you might sustain from the sharp objects.

Five or ten feet of high quality black electrical tape can be wrapped around your container to help waterproof it. With the addition of a few feet of duct tape wrapped around the tin or box in the opposite direction, you will be able to make a variety of repairs. In an emergency, both duct tape and electrical tape have been used to successfully close wounds that might normally require stitches.

Other Useful Gear It's always nice to have available at least 50 feet of 550 Paracord 550 paracord. If your space is limited, you can still carry five or ten feet (top), which can be used for boot laces, lashing, and quite a few other tasks. Just remember to melt the ends after you cut them.

A small sharpening stone (second from top) to keep your knife or knives in good working order is nice, but you can also use a relatively flat piece of sandstone or granite as an expedient. If you have sandstone, but nothing that is flat enough, I have had some success rubbing two pieces together to get a flat surface. Depending on the consistancy of the sandstone, it may take some time to accomplish this task or it might crumble in your hands.

Small multitools such as the Swiss Army Knife are definitely worth their weight. Of course, a Leatherman or Gerber is more durable and has the added bonus of pliers, so if you have enough room, carry that instead.

here A cable saw or preferrably, a Short KuttShort Kutt pocket chain saw, is handy for cutting firewood or poles for shelter construction. There are also folding camp saws that work well, so the biggest factor to consider is size. The Coghlan's Sierra Saw (bottom) has an aggressive tooth pattern and makes short work of small to medium diameter logs.

Completed Survival Kit


Finished Survival Kit And here's what my kit looks like. Your's will probably have some different items of course. Some of the pieces you can't see very well, but you get an idea of how much can be carried in a small container such as the pencil box illustrated above.

To see a listing of many of the items described above, go to the Survival Page.

Thanks for reading this article. Please let me know what you think about it and if you have a great tip to share, send it to contact@weapondoctor.com

If I include it in a future edition, I'll give you credit for it.

Last updated June 26, 2006



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